Have you ever gone backpacking before? I've only got a handful of expeditions under my own belt, but this trip was a first in many ways. This was my longest trek, my heaviest pack, my first bear encounter (or so I thought), and first time to the Enchantments in Washington state. Read on for the details and prepare for an overload of images depicting gleaming streams and rugged mountain tops!
First of all, if you haven't heard of the Enchantments, it is an area in Washington state that is located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and visiting requires a highly sought-after permit. Most permits are distributed via lottery early each year, and, in 2019, almost 19,000 applications were submitted for permits to visit the Core Enchantments zone. Only about 2000 people received permits. The USDA cites that odds of receiving a permit in the core zone are about 1.9%.
I was really lucky to have a couple of friends that had been even more lucky than I and got a permit to visit the Enchantments, AND they asked me if I'd like to go with them! At the time I agreed, I didn't really realize what a special opportunity this was. Anyone reading this who has been applying year after year, anxiously hoping for a permit will read this through gritted teeth, I'm sure. But please know that I did my homework and now understand the value of this experience!
Our route began at the Snow Lakes trailhead by hiking into the Snow Lake (pictured above), which is one of the entrances to the Enchantments. Our permit allowed us to camp in the Snow Lakes zone, and day hike into the Core Enchantments zone. For a more complete map of the Enchantments and their zones, click here. There are some people that do the entire hike in 1 day but it is a DIFFICULT hike. More on this later.
We set out at 6am on day one at the Snow Lakes Trailhead, which challenges hikers to an approximately 9 mile hike and 4500 ft of elevation gain. This was plenty for me on the first day as I am not in prime shape, however, my spirit is quite athletic! Note: pack lots of water as portions of this trail are in direct sun, and the Snow Lakes and Core zones have paths that are very rocky and require both large and small steps to get good footing during the ascent. There are actually several scenic lakes you pass on the way to Snow Lakes, including Nada Lake, which is where we believe we saw some sort of otter or beaver swimming and munching on lunch.
Once we arrived at Snow Lake, we set up camp and questioned if we would be able to hike any farther the next day after the grueling elevation that day.
We gave ourselves a pep talk and decided that with such a special opportunity, we could not pass it up and would have to accept any consequences and suffering that accompanied exploring further into the wilderness.
We tucked ourselves in promptly at 8pm at the first sign of starlight and tried to prepare for what was to come the second day of our trek. Does anyone really ever feel prepared for this hike? I'm not so sure.
Around 2am, I woke up to hear stomping footsteps outside the tent accompanied by heavy breathing and sniffing. I hear my friend say, "KATE." and I say, "YEAH." She asks, "did you hear that?"
I yell, "GUYS!" and wake up the entire camp, only to find out that the source of the sniffing and breathing and clomping was not a bear, but 3 mountain goats!
Let me tell you, they look so sweet and peaceful here, but they didn't seem so cute when they were making their best bear impressions in the middle of the night. I thought FOR SURE that this was my first bear encounter, but I am probably lucky it was a few mountain goats instead. However, the mountain goats in this area are known for being fairly aggressive with hikers as they are attracted to the salt in urine and have learned to find it there--I know, also not a cute attribute. These goats were NOT skittish at all and even after we had all come blasting out of our tents and they walked a bit away from the tents, we heard them sniffing and walking around for several hours into the morning.
Day 2: Snow Lakes to Aasgard Pass, and back to Snow Lakes. Note: I personally did not hike all the way to Aasgard pass because I felt my enjoyment of the hike was partially rooted in being able to capture some images of this beautiful place and just BEING there. I didn't want to have to rush along and hurt myself to get all the way to the far edge of the Core zone. I hiked ~3.1 miles from Snow Lakes to Lake Viviane, Leprechaun Lake, and Sprite Lake.
Below, is Snow Lakes, taken from above, near Lake Viviane.
Below, is bright and blue Lake Viviane. I thought that the surrounding rocky mountains almost looked snow-covered, but they are just that light colored. This elevation is where the golden larches started making their debut and we couldn't keep our mouths from hanging open.
Below, is Lake Viviane from above, beginning the trek towards Leprechaun Lake. Initially, this involved traversing large rock slabs with little-to-no marked trail, other than rock cairns placed along the route for us to follow. Some portions are very steep with poor traction and I get anxiety just imagining being here on a rainy day or even the slight chance of ice!
Once we dropped down from the divide between Lake Viviane and Leprechaun Lake, we had a bit of a valley to enjoy the larches. This area felt like a dream, everywhere you turned was another beautiful compilation of spectacular rock formations, golden larches, and shimmering blue water.
Below, is Leprechaun Lake.
We had to have another group huddle for a speech about not taking so many photos so we could actually, literally, get somewhere. I was not here for that. This is why I also got left behind, ehem-- I mean, elected to stay behind at the next lake, Sprite Lake, to munch on lunch and just enjoy being in the beauty of this area.
(Pictured below: Sprite Lake)
I feel like I could've spent days taking photos of the scenery in the Core Zone and never tire of looking around. It's amazing that these colors exist in nature!
It was amazing how many people we passed that were making the 18 mile+ trip through the Core Enchantment and Snow Lakes zones in one day. By 5pm, there were groups passing our campsite asking how much further to the trailhead parking lot....
Answer: 9 miles and 4500 feet of elevation...at 5pm...yikes.
When we finally peeled ourselves off the shore of Sprite Lake and began hopping rocks back down the mountain to our campsite at Snow Lakes, it was about 3pm and we had all packed our headlamps just in case we were climbing down in the dark. It took us a couple of hours to get back to our campsite again and we were all exhausted!
I am so grateful for this opportunity to see the Enchantments in all their Autumn glory. This was a very humbling experience to challenge my body in this way and be amazed, not only at what I have the strength to do, but what nature does on a daily basis.
Even in 'times of uncertainty', or, chapters of change in our lives, we are constantly experiencing the changes in nature, the revolving doors of the changing seasons, new life, growth, death, and we are stronger for this. We cannot stop the changes of nature, and these changes are a reminder that we are stronger than we realize and we endure great change every single day. No one moment is the same as the next.
(Pictured below: Sprite Lake)
The delicate grasses and moss near the edge of the lakes remind us that we can be tough, and also be soft, and lift others up.
The gold of the larches remind us of our natural beauty.
Both the breeze and the brisk water remind us that new seasons, and change, are inevitable.
The hard, steep stretches of trail show us our power and what we are capable of achieving, and encourage us to appreciate the gentle portions of trail along the way.
The tenderness I experience in my knees and joints after a day's walk, reminds me that even encountering numerous small adversities (as noted in the rocky path) add up, and I can give myself grace for enduring even small hardships daily, as each of us experiences things differently.
The sunshine blanketing all plants, trees and animals illuminates the growth happening all around us, and hints that the seasons will progress without our permission.
And, the beauty of today, in the Enchantments, reminds me that only a harsh winter precedes a mild, beautiful season like this one for me to enjoy. Without each season, we would be experiencing this world far differently than we are today.
How can you gaze upon your own surroundings with new eyes? What parts of nature are sending you messages that you aren't hearing, and, in what portions of your daily life, can you let go and appreciate this very moment?
October 2020.
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